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One thing in market always beckons to me with a siren song: pagne. Pagne is the term for the bright African wax printed fabric available here. It can also refer to the unit of measure for these fabrics, which can be a bit confusing. For example, the pagne usually comes in a pack of trois (3) pagne – close to 3 yards by my eyeball estimation. There’s a whole culture around pagne. You have your old faithfuls that show up over and over again in various colorways. I unwittingly chose one of these classics for my first African dress and soon discovered that not only did I match a curtain in my house, but I also could have organized a matching event with everyone else at church. (I was informed only a few weeks ago that some of these classic pagnes have names, and this particular one is called “Sweep Your Own Yard First.”)
There is a pagne for every occasion! Literally. Recently the Hospital of Hope celebrated its 10th anniversary and a pagne was designed and printed and sold for the event. All the hospital staff wore the blue version, and the green version was available for sale in town. Everyone went to his or her tailor to have elaborate outfits made and it was so fun to see everyone in the same fabric, but all expressing individuality with their designs. Churches might choose a pagne to be “their pagne” for an event; a bride and groom might choose a special pagne for their special day. And this is for free: there is apparently even a “period pagne” that women use to absorb things during their time of the month. Unfortunately I don’t know which one it is so I could be unwittingly wearing it.
Un pagne (one pagne) is the right size for a simple tucked skirt situation – so quick and handy as a pool cover-up or to keep yourself clean(er) when you’re dusting the porch. And of course, this is how you carry your baby! This is one trick I’ll be taking home with me for sure. I’ve never done much baby-wearing as I find I can’t get much done with a baby on my front, but on the back is much easier. It’s not the most comfortable, but you kind of get used to it – and so do the babies. Unfortunately I started a little late with Rafi so he never got used to sleeping in it, but he still grins when I slide him around to my back and tuck him in. No elaborate wrapping or buckles needed – just a piece of cloth.
Here’s a video I found that demonstrates how to wrap the pagne for baby-wearing. It takes a bit to learn to get it tight enough so it doesn’t constantly slide down, so sometimes I knot the top part for extra security.
When we first moved here I kind of chuckled at all the missionaries who wore their African prints (and styles) with pride, but now I think there’s something pretty special about it. There’s something beautiful about embracing the culture you’re in, and the Togolese respond positively to seeing us trying to fit in. And these bold prints are practical as well! I brought a lot of light-colored clothing thinking that it would be cooler…bad idea. Most of my clothing is stained beyond repair. But the African cottons hide the red dirt well with their vivid colors and patterns. I’ve had a few things made for myself and the rest of the family and have been amazed at the tailors and seamstresses here! For around $4 a local tailor made me a very passable attempt at a Mennonite cape dress – with no pattern!
All in all, the culture here is very modest. Islam is the predominant religion, and I do a double take whenever I see a woman in pants! “She must not be from around here!” (Pants and Western clothing are more common in the large cities, but we’re in a very rural area.) Long skirts are the norm, and most married women cover their heads with something. Lucky me – I didn’t have to change anything to come…haha. Going back to the States is going to be a shock to the system, and I cringe to think of the comments my children are going to come up with when faced with the modern Western world.
I’ve worked on quite a few quilts since coming here. The higher quality pagne are cotton and the most expensive come to about $6/yard. The cheap polyester versions are less than $2/yard. One issue I’ve run into with quilting is that it is completely impossible to find solid colored cotton fabric. All the solid colors are pantalon fabric, which is a polyester fabric with a nice weight and drape used to make the men’s outfits. Your best bet for cotton is to find some used sheets in market somewhere, which I have done, but I do wish I would have brought some solid cottons with me! I also found out the hard way that thread from the States is worth bringing along. The thread I’ve found here leaves much to be desired and I spent way too much time constantly rethreading my machine after thread breakages before giving up on it! Thankfully we have enough comings and goings from the States that it’s fairly easy to get necessary items shipped.
My husband’s chagrined comment upon surveying my fabric stash? “You know we have to take all this home with us, right?”
If you missed it, check out the previous posts in this series about our life in Togo:
Beautiful dresses and fabric – and you look great in the authentic African dress that you say is tighter than you’re used to!
This I could become obsessed with!😂 fabric in these languages and stories are a culture all their own. I love how you’ve immersed yourself!
Your quilts are dazzling, especially the one with the black border. Makes those prints pop! The Togo fabric prints are absolutely gorgeous! Blessings to you and your family on your journey.
I enjoy your posts and love seeing how your family has grown.